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Официальная группа вконтакте

Отчет о поездке в Аксу

Отчет о поездке в Аксу в 2013 г.

За отчет спасибо Марусову Павлу.

Состав участников на пик А.Блока по маршруту Филаткина М.А. в честь 30-илетия первопрохождения (5 Б скально-ледовая): Храмов Андрей, Марусов Павел, Гарсия Юлий, Плужник Никита.

Состав участников на вершину Искандер (6 А скальная): Храмов Андрей, Марусов Павел, Плужник Никита, Павел и Валерия г. Зеленоград.

14.07.13 прилетели в г. Ош. Как обычно рынок - провиант, я купил гитару – хотелось погреть душу, думал будет заменой той которую осел раздавил в Каравшие в 2011 г. Примерно в 14 часов выехали из Оша. Долгая утомительная дорога. К 2 часам ночи прибыли в село Узгорош – крайний населенный пункт перед подъемом к базовому лагерю. По пути остановились перекусить в трактире «Золотой мост». Отличное место для отдыха и пополнения сил – рекомендую.


15.07.13 День «вылетел в трубу», организаторы не сделали пропуска, пришлось весь день провести в поселки в ожидании, к вечеру пропуска были.

16.07.13 – выдвинулись в базовый лагерь. Лошади, ослы, мы пешком без груза. Ходу 6 часов и мы на поляне, вокруг прекрасный вид. Высота лагеря 2800 м.

Над всем этим возвышается АкСу. 

17.07.13 прогулялись под АкСу. От лагеря 3 часа без груза, высота 3400.

18.07.13 вышли к массиву А.Блока. Ночевки на скалах на 3700. На следующий день поднялись под начало маршрута Филаткина пик Блока восточная высота 4400.

Оставили заброску, осмотрели маршрут и спустились в базовый лагерь. Пока ходили у меня сперли гитару, обидно. Село рядом, за вещами надо следить.

20.07.13 – день отдыха.

21.07.13 – поднялись до ночевок под маршрутом. Палатку за это время чуть не унесло в соседние ущелье, хотя она была забита железом. В этот день не работали, плохая погода.

22.07.13 стало более менее ясно, и в 10:00 Никита и Юлий ушли на обработку. Ключ в начале маршрута. Отработали 3 веревки.

23.07.13 – оторвались, поднялись до полки для ночевки. В 20:00 были на ночевках, высота 4800

24.07.13 сходили на вершину в 13:30 (высота 5150 м).  Вернулись на ночевки в 17:00.

 

25.07.13. спустились до базового лагеря.

26-27.07.13. дни отдыха.

28.07.13 подошли под АкСу – 3,5 часа. Переночевали.

29.07.13 подошли под маршрут Жильцова по Южной стене на вершину Искандер (6 А к.сл.). Обработали 5 веревок, ночевали на морене под маршрутом.

30.07.13 поднялись на полку.

В 13:30 я и Никита начали обработку ключевой части маршрута, отработали 2 веревки. Сменили нас Андрей и Паша, отработали еще 2 веревки в 21:30 спустились на полку – ночевка (4400 м).

31.07.13 – поднялись до следующих ночевок под вершинной башней. До вершины примерно 5 веревок (высота ночевок 4800 м).

1.08.13 – на вершине в 15 00 (5120 м). Спуск до ночевок на 4800 в 17 30.

2.08.13. 13 дюльферов до морены. В 21 00 были в базовом лагере.

3-4.08 13 – погода испортилась.

5.08.13. спустились в Узгорош и поехали на озеро Сары-Челек.

После чего отправились домой.

Общее впечатление хорошее за исключением украденной гитары и неимоверно наглых коров которые истоптали все палатки и сожрали часть провианта. Район красивый, серьезный. Много пятерок и шестерок, хотя есть варианты и попроще. С удовольствием еще раз поеду. Да, для большинства шестерок нужна платформа.

 

 

 

Комментарии  

 
+2 #1 Фаддеев 04.07.2014 13:22
Павел! Поздравляю с изрядным успехом! Огромное спасибо за отчет! Когда-то я бывал в тех местах (в 87 и в 89 гг.). Ходил и на Искандер, только по 5А. А ваш маршрут наша тогдашняя команда с участием Евгения Ивановича) не смогла пройти. Я сидел, как дурак, наблюдателем под маршрутом. Был я и под Блоком (водил маленьких на Обзорную). Вспоминается и много других потрясающих восхождений!
А вам надо готовиться к прохождению стены Ак-Су. Эта задача не для мелких!
Желаю новых интересных восхождений!
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0 #2 Nadushka 04.07.2014 14:58
Спасибо за отчет Паша!!! МОЛОДЦЫ!!! главное - не останавливаться ;-)
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+1 #3 Трянина 05.07.2014 20:57
Павел! Поздравляю с замечательными восхождениями и спасибо за память. Была там в 1983, когда Миша с ребятами ходили на этот маршрут. Была там 5 раз, много ходила (Искандер С. - 5б, А.Блок по Ю-Згр.- 5Б, М.Искандер - 5Б,5А, Петроградец по Вр - 5А и др). Красивейший район. Многое вспомнилось... Спасибо вам и новых восхождений!
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